Nonfiction
Camino is All About People
Camino de Santiago*. It is an ancient pilgrimage route across Europe leading to Santiago de Compostela's cathedral. It has existed for over 1000 years, and now it has become one of the most famous walking trails in the world.
“For religious reasons, like the ancient pilgrims.”
“To find myself.”
“To take a break from busy life.”
Nearly 350,000 pilgrims worldwide walk to complete the Camino de Santiago each year for many different reasons. Every pilgrim is unique and has the most beautiful stories. We all agree that "Camino is all about people."
Among the diverse routes that go through Spain, Portugal, and France, I chose the most traditional path: Camino Frances. I want to share some of the special people I have met who made my pilgrimage unforgettable.
*Camino: path/way/route in Spanish
:‘Camino de Santiago’ is translated as ‘the way to Santiago’
—------------------—------------------—-----------------------—-----------------------—----
“You, Alone?”
2022.05.10
Nájera - Santo Domingo de la Calzada (20.7 km)
With my uncharged phone and thin jacket, I ran down the stairs of the Albergue* and walked out the door. 9:55pm. It was just before the Albergue curfew. I ignored the stare of the Albergue host and ran to the town's main plaza. My heart was racing. I was thrilled when I heard the door slam behind me. Now, I couldn’t get back to the Albergue until it reopened tomorrow at 5:30 am.
However, my excitement did not last long. All the locals were out in the plaza to enjoy the first night of the FIESTA. I was there by myself, a stranger in town. I was on edge to hear what others said even though I understood nothing. I looked around nervously and kept switching my phone on and off. My phone finally died. And I regretted running out of the Albergue alone to go to the concert.
At that moment, someone tapped on my shoulder. "You, alone?" Efren was with his old friends who grew up together in the town. Although his friends did not speak English, I did not care. Thank god I met people I could hang out with overnight.
My first overnight party was beautiful. We enjoyed the songs of a Spanish band, walked around the bars and clubs, and met tons of local people. They introduced me as a crazy pilgrim who left the Albergue.
This night started with my decision. However, the people I met made the night full of joy. Otherwise, I might have sat on a bench, shivering in the cold, waiting for the Albergue to open up the next day. Took a risky decision. This was the beginning of my Camino to break my harsh standards.
*albergue: a hostel for pilgrims
—------------------—------------------—-----------------------—-----------------------—----
“Bella!”
2022.05.13
Belorado - Ages (27.5 km)
I was tested at least 20 times while walking with an elderly Italian today. I never knew I would do repetitive learning because of my one-time error. The result of this learning was excellent. Whenever he raised his finger, I shouted MARIO!! He was so satisfied with his teaching method that it made me remember his name.
A very light and trifling conversation continued. I carefully listened to his story through the noise of the rain. I tried my best to understand his story. I matched Italian words that sound similar to any English words. I observed his facial expressions and tone to detect the overall mood. Unfortunately, I only understood three things from the wealthy 3 hours of listening.
1. His name is Mario.
2. He enjoyed the festival in Santo Domingo.
3. Bella means beautiful in Italian.
What an unproductive conversation.
Honestly, I tried several times to escape from him because it was pretty tiring to understand a language I had never learned. I almost ran to walk faster than him, but he was a better athlete than I was. I talked to another friend on the way who only speaks English, but then too Mario dominated the whole conversation. I could guess that he repeated the entire story for this new friend.
He was the most talkative yet sweetest person. He stopped whenever he saw a flower and said, “Flower Bella! Shawn Bella!” He even found the most beautiful flower and gave it to me. I don’t remember how often I said “Grazie!” to him.
I brought back all my memories related to Italy to continue the conversation. I remembered an Italian driver was so pissed off by a jaywalker in Rome. He laughed so hard when I imitated the gesture of shaking both of my hands while holding the fingers together. “Mammamia!” “Molto Bene!” “Si, si!” We were the loudest pilgrims. Time flew, and we arrived at the village before we realized it.
The most tiring rainy day became the funniest day. Mario reminded me how amusing it is to feel connected with a person from whom I couldn’t understand a single word. It was a time that brought me back to my childhood, when I was full of courage to be friends with everyone. I couldn’t find Mario again after. However, I heard a story from another Korean that he always talks about me whenever he meets any Korean on the way. He makes me laugh even just thinking about him.
—------------------—------------------—-----------------------—-----------------------—----
“Wanna try?”
2022.05.29
Arzua - O Pedrouzo (19.6 km)
I used to be satisfied with only one bottle of water a day. It was enough to carry along the way and stay hydrated. Nothing needed more. However, I met crazy camping guys who would never be satisfied with just still water. They stopped every 5 metres to pick and sniff random plants on the side of the road. They squeezed and bit them if they looked edible. These guys taught me a new perspective to embracing the trail. Plus, my water bottle was full of new things.
Camino Cafe
1. Louise’s Choice: fresh Mojito
a. The ingredients are simple. Search for fresh Mint on the way and roughly shake off the dust. Put it into your water bottle and add some rum to it. A bottle of rum will always be prepared in Louise’s bag, so there is no need to worry about it. It is our favorite drink that has always been with us during the three times of wild camping in the forest. It is a perfect fit to drink at a campfire with chill music.
2. Leo’s Choice: ROSE
a. It is tea brewed with red roses that Leo found in a small town on the way from Palas de Rei to Arzúa. It can be made even prettier with the pink roses blooming on the side of a small house in the next town. After an hour of walking, the transparent water, drawn by the roses, blushes pink. The best time to enjoy the scent of this beautiful tea is at sunset when the sky also turns red.
3. Clemont’s Choice: Elderflower with pine needles
a. Clemont gave me a sweet flower present that looked like a bouquet of tiny white flowers. However, it all dried out after being carried under strong sunlight for a day. Don’t waste your gift and put it into your water bottle. It tastes as sweet as its smell. Clemont’s tip is to add some pine needles from the tree.
“For religious reasons, like the ancient pilgrims.”
“To find myself.”
“To take a break from busy life.”
Nearly 350,000 pilgrims worldwide walk to complete the Camino de Santiago each year for many different reasons. Every pilgrim is unique and has the most beautiful stories. We all agree that "Camino is all about people."
Among the diverse routes that go through Spain, Portugal, and France, I chose the most traditional path: Camino Frances. I want to share some of the special people I have met who made my pilgrimage unforgettable.
*Camino: path/way/route in Spanish
:‘Camino de Santiago’ is translated as ‘the way to Santiago’
—------------------—------------------—-----------------------—-----------------------—----
“You, Alone?”
2022.05.10
Nájera - Santo Domingo de la Calzada (20.7 km)
With my uncharged phone and thin jacket, I ran down the stairs of the Albergue* and walked out the door. 9:55pm. It was just before the Albergue curfew. I ignored the stare of the Albergue host and ran to the town's main plaza. My heart was racing. I was thrilled when I heard the door slam behind me. Now, I couldn’t get back to the Albergue until it reopened tomorrow at 5:30 am.
However, my excitement did not last long. All the locals were out in the plaza to enjoy the first night of the FIESTA. I was there by myself, a stranger in town. I was on edge to hear what others said even though I understood nothing. I looked around nervously and kept switching my phone on and off. My phone finally died. And I regretted running out of the Albergue alone to go to the concert.
At that moment, someone tapped on my shoulder. "You, alone?" Efren was with his old friends who grew up together in the town. Although his friends did not speak English, I did not care. Thank god I met people I could hang out with overnight.
My first overnight party was beautiful. We enjoyed the songs of a Spanish band, walked around the bars and clubs, and met tons of local people. They introduced me as a crazy pilgrim who left the Albergue.
This night started with my decision. However, the people I met made the night full of joy. Otherwise, I might have sat on a bench, shivering in the cold, waiting for the Albergue to open up the next day. Took a risky decision. This was the beginning of my Camino to break my harsh standards.
*albergue: a hostel for pilgrims
—------------------—------------------—-----------------------—-----------------------—----
“Bella!”
2022.05.13
Belorado - Ages (27.5 km)
1. What is the correct answer when this guy points at himself?
a. ___________
a. ___________
I was tested at least 20 times while walking with an elderly Italian today. I never knew I would do repetitive learning because of my one-time error. The result of this learning was excellent. Whenever he raised his finger, I shouted MARIO!! He was so satisfied with his teaching method that it made me remember his name.
A very light and trifling conversation continued. I carefully listened to his story through the noise of the rain. I tried my best to understand his story. I matched Italian words that sound similar to any English words. I observed his facial expressions and tone to detect the overall mood. Unfortunately, I only understood three things from the wealthy 3 hours of listening.
1. His name is Mario.
2. He enjoyed the festival in Santo Domingo.
3. Bella means beautiful in Italian.
What an unproductive conversation.
Honestly, I tried several times to escape from him because it was pretty tiring to understand a language I had never learned. I almost ran to walk faster than him, but he was a better athlete than I was. I talked to another friend on the way who only speaks English, but then too Mario dominated the whole conversation. I could guess that he repeated the entire story for this new friend.
He was the most talkative yet sweetest person. He stopped whenever he saw a flower and said, “Flower Bella! Shawn Bella!” He even found the most beautiful flower and gave it to me. I don’t remember how often I said “Grazie!” to him.
I brought back all my memories related to Italy to continue the conversation. I remembered an Italian driver was so pissed off by a jaywalker in Rome. He laughed so hard when I imitated the gesture of shaking both of my hands while holding the fingers together. “Mammamia!” “Molto Bene!” “Si, si!” We were the loudest pilgrims. Time flew, and we arrived at the village before we realized it.
The most tiring rainy day became the funniest day. Mario reminded me how amusing it is to feel connected with a person from whom I couldn’t understand a single word. It was a time that brought me back to my childhood, when I was full of courage to be friends with everyone. I couldn’t find Mario again after. However, I heard a story from another Korean that he always talks about me whenever he meets any Korean on the way. He makes me laugh even just thinking about him.
—------------------—------------------—-----------------------—-----------------------—----
“Wanna try?”
2022.05.29
Arzua - O Pedrouzo (19.6 km)
I used to be satisfied with only one bottle of water a day. It was enough to carry along the way and stay hydrated. Nothing needed more. However, I met crazy camping guys who would never be satisfied with just still water. They stopped every 5 metres to pick and sniff random plants on the side of the road. They squeezed and bit them if they looked edible. These guys taught me a new perspective to embracing the trail. Plus, my water bottle was full of new things.
Camino Cafe
1. Louise’s Choice: fresh Mojito
a. The ingredients are simple. Search for fresh Mint on the way and roughly shake off the dust. Put it into your water bottle and add some rum to it. A bottle of rum will always be prepared in Louise’s bag, so there is no need to worry about it. It is our favorite drink that has always been with us during the three times of wild camping in the forest. It is a perfect fit to drink at a campfire with chill music.
2. Leo’s Choice: ROSE
a. It is tea brewed with red roses that Leo found in a small town on the way from Palas de Rei to Arzúa. It can be made even prettier with the pink roses blooming on the side of a small house in the next town. After an hour of walking, the transparent water, drawn by the roses, blushes pink. The best time to enjoy the scent of this beautiful tea is at sunset when the sky also turns red.
3. Clemont’s Choice: Elderflower with pine needles
a. Clemont gave me a sweet flower present that looked like a bouquet of tiny white flowers. However, it all dried out after being carried under strong sunlight for a day. Don’t waste your gift and put it into your water bottle. It tastes as sweet as its smell. Clemont’s tip is to add some pine needles from the tree.